From a sedate historic World Heritage site to museums in motoring’s fast line, this Italian city is sure to get your heart racing.
Modena, in the heart of Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, between Milan and Florence, is a beautiful city to include on your travel itinerary.
The city began as a Roman colony in 183 BC and provides an experience rich in history, culture, food and wine.
History and culture
Modena’s centre revolves around a UNESCO World Heritage site, including the stunning cathedral, Piazza Grande and Ghirlandina Tower.
The Modena Cathedral is one of the most beautiful churches I’ve seen. We spent ages there, soaking up this striking example of Romanesque art.
Construction began in 1099, and the cathedral is covered with ancient Roman stones.
Its main doors open onto Piazza Grande (12th century) and adjoining the cathedral is the imposing Ghirlandina Tower (the bell tower). Nearby is the beautiful Town Hall and clock tower, and it’s a short walk to Ducal Palace, a fine example of baroque architecture and home to the Military Academy.
A little further west, you’ll find one of Italy’s oldest art collections at Galleria Estense. Modena’s cultural heritage also includes opera singers, such as the late Luciano Pavarotti, who was born there.
The city’s exquisite municipal theatre is named after him. You can learn about his life at the Pavarotti Home Museum, just outside town.
A statue of Pavarotti one of Modena's most famous cultural exports.
An F50 Ferrari in the Maranello museum.
Automotive finesse
If roaring engines are music to your ears, there’s much to see here.
There are two Ferrari museums, a Maserati museum, a Lamborghini museum and other car collections. Motorcycle enthusiasts can explore the Ducati museum near Bologna.
It's hard to ignore the famous Prancing Horse marque in Modena, as this is where Enzo Ferrari founded his eponymous sports car brand.
The stylish Enzo Ferrari Museum, near the railway station, is dedicated to the company’s founder.
The displays change seasonally and the facility includes a Ferrari apparel store, cafe and Ferrari GT simulators, which you can book.
From there, catch a shuttle to the Ferrari Museum at Maranello, 30 minutes away.
The Maranello museum is tilted more towards racing, with a terrific display covering Scuderia-Ferrari’s 90 years in Formula 1, including Michael Schumacher’s and Kimi Raikkonen’s championship-winning cars.
Also, you can wander among the fine red and yellow Ferrari supercars, including the GTO, F40, and F50.
Ninety minutes is enough for the museum but you can add a 10-minute session on an F1 simulator (other visitors will watch your perfectly executed, high-speed crashes).
The museum features a cafe and ‘merch’ shop, where you can buy a Ferrari T-shirt for €80 (about A$130) or a leather jacket for much more. Near the museum, you can book Ferrari drive experiences.
Culinary flair
On the recommendation of an Australian friend who has lived in Modena, we tried the traditional Restaurant Danilo (ristorantedadanilomodena.it).
It was so brilliant that we returned two nights later for another meal.
Founded in 1934 (originally Trattoria Belvedere) and located in the historic centre, Danilo specialises in authentic Emilian cuisine and is passionate about food and service.
This shows in the quality of its dishes and the professionalism of its staff.
Among the delights are tortellini in broth, handmade lasagna and tagliatelle, risotto with porcini mushrooms, and beef fillet with balsamic vinegar.
Danilo offers great food at reasonable prices. Don’t miss it.
Coffee and biscotti in Modena.
The city is also home to the famed Osteria Francescana, run by Modena-born Massimo Bottura.
With three Michelin stars, this small restaurant releases available dates six months in advance and books quickly.
The tasting menu costs €350 (about A$560), with the wine pairing €240 (about A$385).
Modena is also known for the best balsamic vinegar, made with a painstaking process, and certified for its origin and production.
We opted for the inexpensive tour and tasting at the Municipal Balsamic Vinegar Factory. We were warned that it was in Italian, but we decided to try it with the help of Google Translate.
It was an amusing 45 minutes as my wife and I got different and, at times, unusual translations on our phones while trying to follow the guide.
We got the gist of it, though, and enjoyed the tasting.
A colourful street scene in Modena.
Food culture is a big part of life in Modena and tortellini is another local culinary treasure
You’ll find this delicate, handmade pasta in many establishments.
Other hometown heroes include Parmigiano-Reggiano (the ‘king of cheeses’) and Prosciutto di Modena.
The area is also known for its Lambrusco, a light, fruity style of red wine.
On your food journey here, you’ll also learn about the ‘protected origin’ designations, which guarantee authenticity and quality.
Don’t miss the historic central market, Mercato Albinelli (closed on Sunday). It dates back to 1931 and has a fun, bustling vibe.
You can pick up fresh fruit, vegetables, cheese, fish, meat or pastries, or grab a coffee or a glass of wine. A visit here is a great way to start the day.
Getting around
There are many galleries, museums, historic buildings, trattorias, cafes, bars and other attractions across the city, so allow time to explore.
Modena is very walkable. Download the useful ‘metrominuto Modena’ map, which lists walking times between key locations.
It’s also an easy place to tackle by bike. You can access a free bike-share service at the Tourist Information Office.
Modena is an hour from Milan and 30 minutes from Bologna by train.
It is an easy place to get around and a delight to explore.