Paradise in the Pacific

Discover amazing Lord Howe Island – where mountains and corals collide.

Summer 2024/25
by Tristan Vorias
In the words of Sir David Attenborough, Lord Howe Island is “so extraordinary, it’s almost unbelievable”. After spending a week there myself, I couldn’t agree more.

Lord Howe Island is 11km long and 2km across at its widest point. It’s a speck in the vast Pacific Ocean, about 700km south-east of the Gold Coast. But it’s one of the most ecologically significant specks on the planet.

The island is the remnant of a now-extinct shield volcano dating back seven million years.

Its unique topography is exploding with life – home to more than 110 endemic plant species, 207 bird species (including the endangered Lord Howe woodhen) and more than 1,600 types of insects.

Below the water surface lies more than 500 fish species and 90 different corals – all part of the world’s most southern coral reef.

It’s pristine and dramatic. There’s no wonder it was UNESCO World Heritage-listed in 1982.

To protect the island’s natural beauty, only 400 tourists are allowed on the island at any given time.

A white tern perched on a tree on Lord Howe Island
A white tern perched on a tree on Lord Howe Island. Photo Destination NSW.

I flew in from the Gold Coast on Eastern Air Services, but Qantas also flies to Lord Howe via Sydney.

There are plenty of different accommodation options depending on your budget. I stayed at Arajilla, which oozed luxury and attention to detail.

The stay included all food and drinks, which had my tastebuds tap dancing.

A delicious meal at the Arajilla Retreat restaurant. Photo Destination NSW.
Head Chef Ben served up a spicy kingfish eggs benedict for breakfast and a seasonal three-course meal with paired wines for dinner. Heaven!

Delicious cuisine was a pleasant surprise for my stay. The real reason I came to Lord Howe was to explore its unique wilderness.

The island is home to some spectacular mountains – the most famous and tallest of which is Mount Gower.

Reaching 875m, it towers over the southern end of the island and can only be climbed with a guide, taking about eight hours return.

Weather and time prevented me from hiking the peak, but Jae De Clouett from Wildside Walks had me covered.

The first trek we embarked on was through the Valley of the Shadows, a relatively easy 1.5-hour return walk characterised by the endemic Kentia palms and unique fig trees with roots dangling from their trunks.

A group of hikers on Mount Gower. Photo Destination NSW.

The next walk Jae took me on was up Malabar Hill.

This walk started in a cow paddock before transforming into something resembling the Scottish Highlands with thick green grass and rocky outcrops.

We ascended along the ridgeline through native shrubs and trees, greeted by the friendly Lord Howe woodhen – the island’s endemic flightless bird. After about one hour, we summited at 208m. The views rendered me speechless.

To the north was a sheer drop to waves and reefs and to the south was a view of the entire island, with the ominous Mount Gower looking magnificent as ever.

A scuba diver exploring the coral gardens surrounding Lord Howe Island. Photo Jordan Robins.
After scratching the surface of Lord Howe, it was time to scratch under the surface with Dive Lord Howe.

Master Diver Aaron Ralph took our tour group to a spectacular reef called Malaba Landslide, characterised by coral caves and canyons.

Those with a diving ticket descended to a depth of about 14m, while I opted for a snorkel, spotting brightly coloured corals, hundreds of fish and stunning Galapagos sharks.

“Lord Howe Island is a sea mountain, so it’s volcanic, vibrant and beautiful. You’ve got such diversity in marine life and topography under the water – it caters for everything from the most basic introductory dive, right up to technically diving,” Aaron explained.

After scratching the surface of Lord Howe, it was time to scratch under the surface with Dive Lord Howe.

Master Diver Aaron Ralph took our tour group to a spectacular reef called Malaba Landslide, characterised by coral caves and canyons.

Those with a diving ticket descended to a depth of about 14m, while I opted for a snorkel, spotting brightly coloured corals, hundreds of fish and stunning Galapagos sharks.

“Lord Howe Island is a sea mountain, so it’s volcanic, vibrant and beautiful. You’ve got such diversity in marine life and topography under the water – it caters for everything from the most basic introductory dive, right up to technically diving,” Aaron explained.

Blinky Beach Lord Howe
Coral gardens surrounding Lord Howe Island with views of Mount Lidgbird and Mount Gowe

How you can visit

Booking a holiday on Lord Howe Island can be tricky with the tourist caps. To relieve stress, RACQ Travel offers an exclusive package that includes flights, accommodation, a glass-bottom boat, a snorkelling tour, and a guided trek.

All, the details can be found on RACQ.com/travel.