Nestled among freshwater lakes, grasslands and mountains is the Okanagan Valley – Canada’s second-largest wine region.

The valley stretches 250km and is dotted with sub-regions, each with unique soil and climate conditions suited to growing a variety of grapes (which is almost evenly split between whites and reds).

My wine awakening took place in the lakeside city of Kelowna.

There are more than 40 wineries sprawled across the outskirts of town, ranging from family-run cellar doors to large, renowned enterprises.

I wasted no time in exploring what was on offer, starting at Quails’ Gate in West Kelowna.

It’s one of the oldest family-owned and operated wineries in the region. It’s also an estate winery, meaning the grapes come from their own vineyards to make their wine.

Before I get near a glass of wine, I am awestruck by the scenic landscape unfolding before me as I enter the tasting foyer.

The plateau is covered in rows of regimented, grape-laden vineyards overlooking the expansive Okanagan Lake. To the left, alfresco diners at the estate’s renowned Old Vine Restaurant soak up the vista.

Quails’ Gate sommelier Katrin Pottel, who moved to the region 25 years ago from Germany, told me the varying soil profiles, long, hot growing days and diverse microclimates allow them to grow at last 10 varieties of grape, producing 30 skews (types of wines) across more than 80ha of vineyards.

“The Stewart family, who owns Quails’ Gate, settled in this area in 1908 and went on to start one of the biggest nurseries in British Columbia,” Katrin said.

Quails' Gate Winery during winter. Photo: Thompson Okanagan/@meghan_reading.

“Their son Richard sold his share in the family business and bought this land which is now home to Quails’ Gate. In 1961, the first grape variety was planted here.

“The south-facing slopes are sheltered to the north by Mount Boucherie, an extinct volcano, with the south-westerly winds bringing a warming effect, creating the perfect place for growing grapes.”

The grapes here receive more sun than the vineyards in Napa Valley, California, but harvest can be touch and go, depending on the weather.

Usually, grape picking starts in mid-August and runs for 2.5 months, but when I visited in October, the hand-picking process started in the last week of September.

“We have to start, even if the grapes aren’t completely, ready because we’re not going to get all the produce off the vines before winter if we don’t start at some point,” Katrin said.

“The biggest problem we have is that we still don’t have enough grapes to keep up with demand, because 95% of wine produced in British Columbia is consumed within the province from both thirsty locals and tourists,” Katrin told me as I sipped a pinot noir from their estate series.

“This is the easy drinking line because it’s not too oaky,” she explained as I nodded furiously with the glass to my face.

Quails’ Gate has won awards for its wines and is known for its chardonnay and pinot noir.

“We won a gold medal for our syrah at the Decanter World Wine Awards, which help put us on the map, and our dry riesling is served at a five-star Michelin restaurant in London.

Mission Hill Winery with its iconic bell tower. Photo: Thompson Okanagan/Allen Jones.

“We’re working on a sparkling right now because that was the one thing missing at Quails’ Gate.”

Quails’ Gate is one of the only wineries in the region where you can walk through the vineyards, wine in hand – creating the perfect photo moment! 

A faint but unmistakable gong of church bells rang out across the valley.

It was coming from the 12-storey bell tower at the neighbouring Mission Hill Winery.

The grand main building looked like a Tuscan monastery and the estate’s underground barrel cellar was blasted out of volcanic rock.

In addition to its architectural beauty, Mission Hill is Canada’s only five-time winner of Winery of the Year.

In 2022, CedarCreek Estate Winery, in nearby East Kelowna, took out the top spot.

There is one winery different to the rest.

Indigenous World Winery is British Columbia’s only 100% Indigenous-owned winery, blending the local traditional Syilx culture with modern style.

Taking in the view at Indigenous World Winery. Photo: Indigenous Tourism BC/Brendin Kelly.

It opened six years ago and added its own range of spirits to its production line four years ago.

It’s a good idea to plan your winery tour in advance. You can use the local tourism body’s Wine Trail Guidebook to help your self-drive adventure or book a guided wine tour.

If you’re visiting in the summer months reservations for wine tastings and restaurant dining are recommended.

While in Kelowna you can also visit the BC Wine Museum and learn about the staff’s favourite local wines.

If wineries aren’t your cup of tea, Kelowna city has a large brewery scene (about 12 breweries within walking distance) and its downtown area boasts many microbars, restaurants and cafes.

My chaperone from Tourism Kelowna gave me her ‘local opinion’ on the best bars, eateries, and breweries around town:

• Born to Shake
• Cobra
• Jack Knife Brewing
• Okanagan spirits
• Rustic Reel Brewing Company
• Kettle River Brewing
• BNA Brewing Co
• Central Kitchen + Bar
• Radudz Regional Table
• Bernie’s Supper Club and Cinema
• Sunny’s A Modern Diner
• Karat Chocolate and Patry
• OEB Breakfast Co.