In the presence of giants

Road Trip

RACQ member Clara Gratwick takes us on a road trip through the Northern Rivers district of NSW.

Northern NSW road trip.

The windscreen wipers are going full pelt – we’re driving around one hairpin bend after another and dodging the potholes that litter the road like a game of real-life Mario Kart.

It may not be everyone’s ideal holiday, but it definitely makes for an adventure.

Idyllic scenery passes by with views of Mt Warning and its surrounding mountains dwarfing the endless green paddocks, somewhat bumpy road and often tumble-down once-dairies.

It makes the world feel massive, but incredible small at the same time – low-hanging cloud constantly dancing over the rain forests and cliff faces, creating bubbles of small-town charm.

Taking the inland route, we travel past Allora, through Warwick and then further into the mountains. The winding road passes though Killarney as glimpses of Main Range National Park, Queen Mary Falls section, are visible from the road.

And that’s the relatively flat, easier part.

Northern NSW road trip.

Following Mt Lindesay Road through national park after national park after state forest that gives you the feeling that you may be traveling in circles as to avoid running over mountains, which looking at a map, is partially true.

But following this winding stretch of double white-lined bitumen through endless trees, only for it to open up to views over spectacular mountains with waterfalls dripping off them, into rivers curling round their bases like discarded ribbons, makes you appreciate the magnificent glory of this untameable country.

There is so much sheer natural beauty surrounding the road and so few cars that it feels like you could be the only people in the world.

As a film photographer sitting in the front seat, it’s hard not to take 10 photos of the same road as it seems to grow more picturesque round every corner and over every hill, of which there are many.

The beauty of this landscape continues, turning onto the Summerland Way, through yet more of Border Ranges National Park and various state forests.

 It’s a stark contrast to this same journey made in January of 2020, where the evidence of the bushfires of 2019 and recent flooding presented a torn, charred and bruised landscape.

Northern NSW road trip.

It’s still evident three years later and will be for many more. While some trees have continued to grow, some still stand blackened, a reminder of the devastation of bushfire.

Suddenly the forests give way to townships, the largest being Kyogle and its main street decorated with multi-coloured lightbulbs and pastel, ’70s-esque buildings and the best pies found in the bakery.

After yet another 30 minutes on the road, we arrive at our destination – a friend’s place outside of Larnook, we are to spend the next few days picking mangoes, avocadoes, chatting around the campfire, exploring waterfalls and playing board games and cards as we watch yet another rain-drenched cloud fill the skies around us and then tumble onto a corrugated iron roof.

There will be adventure, possibly bogged cars, and much laughter before we make our journey home through the stillness of these mountains.

It’s just a road trip but it heeds a reminder of how small we are as humans and the power we weld against this land, and yet how beautiful it is.

Get peace of mind before you next road trip with RACQ Roadside Assistance

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